Tuning a new chassis

^

Tuning any new chassis is always going to be a challenging process and trying to get optimal performance out of your chassis can sometimes be easy or sometimes hard especially if you have multiple chassis with different layouts. My Rer was slightly easier to tune and performance was gained easily, however my kazama doripake is becoming more of a challenge than the Rer, the battery weight shift layout makes the rear end much more sensitive and twitchier than the Rer and compared to other doripakes i've driven the kazama really makes you concentrate on your hand reaction and throttle control. Now when it comes to tuning and settings you always start with an initial basic setup from scratch, drive it, have a feel and then go from there and make minor changes as you go and see where it leads you

here's what i'm experimenting with ....

^

Last time i had the gyro placement up the front of the chassis positioned right behind the bulkhead, i noticed that having in the front of the chassis it was actually quit sensitive which meant that i had to increase the gyro gain, now it was fine for while but i was beginning to not enjoy the increased assistance so i was having to reposition the gyro in the middle, this meant i was able to decrease the assistance and for now its working well .. i may go back to having it up front once the rest of the chassis settings are where i want them to be. 

^

Now with the the battery layout making the chassis very rear heavy, it was sort of lacking performance and it wasn't drifting and it looked like shit on the track, this meant i was in need of some front weight tuning. Now i had this OVERDOSE front one-way lying around so i've decided to use it because its black and i think it looks quite good sitting in there filling the gap, it weighs about 14grams.

^

20grams in the bumper, there also another 15grams hidden behind the one-way which makes for about 50grams in total up front

 ^

Now i know that the chassis is very rear heavy, but i needed to get more weight lower to the ground, 20grams in the rear on the diffuser and the 50 grams up front made the chassis more stable and it was starting to drift and begun to come alive on the track. Happy Days!!!

 ^

Flipping this upside automatically gave me some kick-up settings.

^

Now i was finding that as i wasn't exiting corners fast enough or spinning out while i was in tandems and i was slowing down the train considerably because it could exit my cornering fast enough, i was finding that as i was throwing my rear end out and due to the aggressive roll from the weight shift the rear was swing out to much and i couldn't throttle out, so i'd spin out or i was too slow,

adding 1mm extra in the front suspension blocks gave me a little more kick-up in total i'm guessing theres about 2mm this was helping me with some forward push and grip as i exited.

^

sitting low at about 5.5mm ride height front and back.

So right about now i'm some what quite pleased at how its performing at the moment, it is getting closer and closer to optimal performance, but with our GCRC trip coming up in 2 weeks i've got very little time to get some decent tuning sessions in.